Srpski
Traveling Brazil and Argentina in pregnancy with a two year old – preparation, buying tickets, research
After four winters spent in South East Asia (which we love and feel like home) we decided to make a change – to try something new. For start we didn’t have any particular destination, we decided to search for the cheap flights and see what are the options. First thing we wanted was South Africa – flight straight from Belgrade for 380eur but we decided to skip because Uk transit visa and South African which we would have to get in Bulgaria. One week after we fount tickets Rome – Sao Paula – Rome for 315 EUR per person. Decision was instant. We will go to Sao Paulo and we will make itinerary afterwards.
We often find cheap tickets for far destination but the departure point is not Belgrade but somewhere from Central Europe and the problem is that trip to that place, lets say Zurich, can often be more expensive than flight from lets say Zurich to Mexico. This time we made a cheap connection Timisoara Rome for 27 Eur round trip via WizzAir. We like when we have a connecting flight in city like Rome as you then get an extra destination. We stayed one night there both times, flying from and to South America. Timisoara is close, around 180km from Belgrade and we leave the car on airport parking – but when we travel short term. This time we left it in Vrsac and with a courtesy of my friend he drove us to Timisoara (and picked us back)
South America – the big unknown
About South America we heard a lot of stories, mainly bad ones. Kidnapping, especially children, crime in favelas, drug ward, ATM robberies etc. The most horror one was an illegal taxi that takes you to the jungle where they steal your organs… When you hear those stories you get ready for all sorts of things. One of them is that I’ve ordered hidden bag for pants from aliexpress, and I was very proud on myself that I saw bunch of local have the exact same one for the carnival. To be honest I did’t have much use from it, after the carnival I used to keep my card and cash in my pocket normally. BTW in Brazil debit card is the most common way of paying to my surprise. If you want to have a cocktail on a beach, ZAP, bring out the card, whipe the sand off it and swipe 🙂 You “almost” don’t need cash in Brazil.
Aside of crime, Brazil has a bad rap for illness as well and most fresh one is Zika virus. For the World Championship and Olympics there were a lot of warnings that pregnant women shouldn’t travel to Brazil. Everyone was chilled by the frightening children born with microcephaly. If you have read our other posts, you might have read that Jelena got pregnant first time before our Philippines trip. This time we had the same scenario, we bought the tickets, couple of days before the trip Jelena did a pregnancy test and it was positive, First thing we both said at the same time – Zika! Like destiny intends things, it intended that she stays pregnant in one country you want to travel pregnant the least. We thought about dropping the whole thing but we payed everything – tickets, airbnb, retnacar. All nonrefundable. We decided to do a good, through research.
When the epidemic broke out, in 2016. there was around 260.000 people that was affected. As a result 960 babies with microcephaly was born. Two years later number of affected was 2200 and the babies with microcephaly – 20. In short its 1000 times less. Epidemics is officially over, but american health organisation still had an advise of not going for pregnant women. But, the truth is they say the same about Thailand and Philippines as well. Also the whole story about microcephaly is very complicated, as its not only the Zika virus that causes it but also some other viruses and also genetic anomalies. For some reason majority of cases appear in North East part of the Brazil. It is believed that mutation is triggered most often if the mother had a dengue fever before zika. Botton line was that 20 cases in a country of 200 milion people was risk that we can take, as its 100 more likely to get killed by other things staying home.
So, we decided to leave all the negative thoughts behind us. Think positive and positive things will happen!
Whole trip lasted for one month and a half months, which seems like a lot of time, but for that whole time we managed to see the south coast of Brazil, from Buzios to Florianopolis, Buenos Aires and Iguazu Falls. Some places we just rushed through.
Plan was next:
Rome – 1 day
Sao Paulo – 4 days
Florianopolis – 5 days
Curitiba – 2 days
Iguazu falls (Brazilian side) – 1 day
Buenos Aires – 7 days
Iguazu falls (Argentinian side) – 1 day
Costa Verde (Parati, Angra dos Reis, Ihla Grande, Buzios) – 7 days
Rio de Janeiro – 11 days
Sao Paulo – 1 day
Rome – 1 day
Departure from Belgrade: 31. January, return: 14. march
From Rome to Sao Paulo we flew with Latam airlines. Amazing price but with one catch – its with cabin bags only. Also all the low cost flights through South America were without any check in baggage, which worked for us as it kept the cost down. We have learned over the time to travel lightly, only challenge was to pack Relja. On long destinations we take clothes for 7 fo 10 days and we wash along the way. There are always aribnbs with laundry machine or there is laundry nearby, its just that its sometimes costly . For Relja we brought books and toys so he is not bored but in the end he wasn’t using all of them meaning we could pack in even less!
Sao Paulo
We have landed in Sao Paulo, biggest city of South America and we are first time in southern hemisphere! There isn’t metro line from the airport so Uber was the best option. 12 euros we payed it’s not very budget friendly but there is around one hour of driving involved so its not expensive. From the city we didn’t expect anything since it doesn’t have much reputation. Still we thought three days is not too much to be bored as we planed to see the zoo and aquarium.
Sao Paulo is a megalopolis, with 23 million people in metro area. Even enormous it doesn’t have a lot to offer to attract tourists like Rio and Buenos Aires, still it looks like city that has potential. From interesting places there are Avenida Paulista – main avenue and Tenente Siqueira Campos park that looks like a small jungle with a good park for the kids. Main gastro highlight in Sao Paulo is famous mortadela sandwich which you can try in Mercado Munticipal. In south part of the city there is Ibirapuera park, Sao Paulo version of central park – good for kids and families.
Sao Paulo has the biggest immigration of Japanese in the world. Over 1.5 million Brazilians has some Japanese origins, the have their own little japan in Liberdade part of the city. It is very picturesque with the Japanese lamps, restaurants, theme shops, small gardens… It is easy to think that the square is named after some liberation but it actually has a dark history to it – it was a square with the gallows pole specially for the slaver. As death was a “liberation” to them, therefore it was a square libertadore. There isn’t anything left to remind of the gloomy past, except for one small church.
A bit further from the center, on the last stop of the green line there is a part of town called Villa Madalena, bohemian quarters where young paulinhos and students gather to chill. There are bunch of coffee shops and artistic studios, restaurants,, bars but one of the best concentration of graffiti and wall-art in the world. The centre of this is Beco do Batman small part made of couple of small streets, Relja liked this very much. We also visited Sao Paulo Aquarium, because as scuba dive fanatics and marine life enthusiasts we don’t miss any from where we go. However we were little surprised with the fee and the fact that 2 year old kids pay the entrance fee (90 real for the grownups, children 60 real), in a country with so many poor people family of three needs 60 euros to see what should be available to everyone. Except the price we really enjoyed the place as its a very good aquarium. Relja loved it, one thing to notice is that its half zoo, half real aquarium as there are animals like otters and polar bears.
From the parts of town that are worth visiting, but maybe not as prime destination is the cetner. Therw are nice baroque and neoclassical buildings and several art-deco buildings like Edificio banco do Sao Paulo and Estadio Municipal. There is a Paulo Catedral with roots from 1589., build in neo-gothic style and even pretties Sao Bento monastery
Centar of Sao Paulo still leaves a bitter taste, we didn’t notice any crime but there are lot of bums, which are not a problem by themselves, but there is a lot of trash just thrown in the middle of the streets, the smell they leave, occasionally you can see people doing poo-poo in the public. Luckily this just in the center and not in other parts of the city.
Sao Paulo is what they call a vibrant that is still looking for its place on a tourist map. It is a city made for the locals. Generally its not expensive and there is a lot of things to try out, we were drinking litres of marakuja juice in the local restaurants. There are cheap pastries and coffee on every corner – you will not be hungry. Paulinhos are very friendly and they love kids, even that a lot of them don’t speak English, with some Spanish I know we understood each other. Relja always finds friends for us, as he is the guy for the first contact. The only real challange I had was buying a sim card with credit, you need some patience in order to finish this as there are not a lot of people that understand English and the procedure is complicated as well.
To sum up – is Sao Pauo worth visiting? If you are landing and have open schedule then yes, definitely stay there for 2 or 3 days, but probably not more as you might want to use days for something else. Only thing I would change is the place to stay. We stayed in centre because while doing my research I read that its a good place to stay the first time, but if I could do it again I would stay in Villa Magdalena airbnb somewhere near the metro station.
Florianapolis
For Florianapolis we had a flight with GOL airlinesom. Flight was very cheap – 28 USD per person. Like we wropte many times, we travel with least to expect, so we are almost never disappointed but many things can surprise you. One of those places was Floripa (island of Santa Catarina)
Viewpoint in Florianopolis
Floripa, like the locals call it, is the city where one half os on Santa Catarina island that is connected to the mainland with the bridge. Island is 54 kilometres long and it has 42 beaches. If you compare it with a tropical island it is not so “instagramish”, but the photographs are not everything. Island has a special vibe that doesn’t exist on the Caribbeans or South East Asia and that you can’t present on the photos. First impression is that it is an island with a strong middle class, there aren’t so many poor people you can see like in Sao Paulo and there are no favelas. Everything is nice and tide, occasionally it reminds on Florida (Floripa/Florida, funny huh? :D). On Floripa there are half a million people and some tourist but the tourism is not very developed. City is based on IT industry and services, there are a lot of startups operating from Florianopolis. It’s not like lets say Phuket where everyone is ready to pray on your money, it is a place built for them, not for us. Except for the beaches there are sand dunes, jungle and two lake/lagoons which are not lagoons as you might expect. Its very clean with blue flag, good for swimming and watersports.
project tamar turtle sanctuary in Barra da Lagoa
Beaches on the east are open to the ocean and are popular for surfing while ones on the north are for bathing. Water is warm, coast is clean, there is always something to buy for eating, you can buy Caipirinha and pay all that with the credit card. There is a lot of chilled music, in the evening people socialise, there are some hipster bars, places where you can drink craft beer, they organise poetry nights, its simply fantastic. Not just for travelling, it actually looks live very liveable place. Prices are in average 5-10% more than Belgrade which makes it also cheap. Only thing that is very expensive are the restaurants. In Balkans you can eat twice the size, same quality for twice less money. For accommodation we used airbnb and we payed around 25USD per night for a room in a big house. We went to the beaches with uber, and we visited these beaches: Joaquina, Barra da Lagoa, Praia do Forte, Jurere, Mole, Campeche and Cauldron. Main place on the islands seems to be Lagoa de Conceicao, a little town in one of the lagoas. We also visited Project Tamar – turtle sanctuary, a project that turned around negative trend of turtles population in Brazil. Sand dunes – Dunes of Joaquina are also amazing, urban myth is that sandboarding is invented in this place. We stayed five days but this is the place you can easily stay more.
Curitiba
To Curitiba we came from Florianapolis by bus around four hours of ride. The came to Curitiba because cheap flight ticket, as it costed 40usd to the Iguazu Falls (from Sao Paulo it was 100), from Floripa there isn’t direct flight to the falls. Second reason we decided to visit Curitiba was Serra Verde express, a train ride that is allegedly one of the 5 most scenic train rides in whole Americas. Unfortunately I gambled with buying tickets and we didn’t go, I wanted to buy on spot, but we came on Sunday and the selling spot didn’t work. When I tried to buy again on-line that day wasn’t available. So unplanned we stayed two nights instead of two. Curitiba is considered “most European” city in Brazil, because it has the most migration from Europe and there weren’t any plantations on which slaves would work. We visited botanical garden, train museum which is also a shopping mall with content for kids, but the most interesting thing we saw was Parque Barigui which has a colony of Capybara (giant hamster) that live out in the open, sleeping in holes and mud like the piggies 🙂
Iguazu Waterfalls
Iguazo or Igazu falls are by us maybe the highlight of our trip. When I planned an itinerary I decided for the next approach: doing my research I learned that for the full experience you should visit both sides of the falls – Brazilian and Argentinian, which turned out to be absolutely correct. There isn’t “a better side” because they full-fill each other, from one side you can see them in the distant, but from the other side you can come close to the action. Also I figured out that the weather can’t be a gamble, there is a big chance for a rainy day, so I wanted to “split” the two days on the falls with a week in between. Falls are something you can visit on the cloudy and rainy day but the subjective feeling you have is quite different and not to talk about the photos. Ok, some might call me a hypocrite, but who can choose to have a gray and gloomy photo or a shiny, colourful one can throw the first stone. I wanted to amortise the risk so our itinerary was to come from Curitiba in the morning, spend a day on Brazilian side, pass the border in the evening, sleep on Argentinian side and fly to Buenos Aires. Place in Argentina is called Puerto Iguasu, and on Brazilian Foz Do Iguazu, it is two different airports as well to avoid the confusion. In Buenos Aires we would stay the seven days, fly to Iguazu, see the Argentinian side of the falls, pass the border and late in the evening fly to Rio.
Igazu Vodopadi, pogled sa Argentinske strane
Fist of two days passed on a rainy day. I can’t say that the feeling we had was reduced but we didn’t use any of the photos we made. Seven days after weather was perfect. For the ones who don’t know Iguazu are one of the biggest falls on earth, one of most impressive ones, one of the seven nature wanders of the world and the longest one in the worlds (2.7km). What I can say is that it is the one of the most impressive things I have ever saw in my travellers life along Petra in Jordan and Angkor Wat in Cambodia. I visited Niagara Falls nine years before and I was well impressed but Iguazu totally blew me away. We visited all the track from both sides and every view on them is breathtaking. Its not just the falls its the whole ambient of the jungle, Tucans that you can see in the open, Coati raccoons and Monkeys. Seeing the core of the falls in the Devil’s Throat, that mass of water falling in the abyss there in front of you made me feel very small and insignificant in positive meaning of course. It makes you think and it makes you appreciative. It also makes the travelling, flying, walking, dragging of bags, carrying 15 kilo boy on your shoulders for miles on 38 degrees worth a while. Yes, I have seen something magnificent that is there long before me and will stay there long after me glorious as it is. I was also wandering will this experience get carved in Reljas subconscious, will it fill him with wanderlust, to wander around whole his life like Captain Cook, Thor Heyerdahl…
Relja u Aves Parku kao gospodar zveri
When we came from Curitiba, we landed on Foz do Iguazu airport, from the airport to the falls entry point you can make on foot, but because of bags and Relja we took a cab (costed around 5 eur). We left the bags in the locker and went exploring. From the entry point to the waterfalls there is a bus ride that is included in the ticket price. After the falls we visited magnificent Parque Das Aves, a bird zoo that is located around 200 meters from the falls entry point. Park has fantastic collection of birds, butterflies, hummingbirds all in half-open space. Relja was thrilled, he loves animals and zoos and this one was no exception. From the falls to Puerto Iguassu town on Argentina side we took the direct bus that costed less than 3 EUR per person. Border pass was simple – off the bus, to the check point, on the bus with the bags staying on the bus. In the town a bit away from the centre you can find a place with three borders Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay. There is a place with all three country flags and a great view on the river that actually splits the three countries. From Puerto Iguassu we took a taxi to the Argentinian airport, price was 400 real (8 EUR) but it was relatively affordable since minibus that is cheapest option costs 200 real per person.
Returning from Buenos Aires we landed to Puerto Iguassu and as previously planned we went to the falls on Argentinian side. Waterfalls are 6 km from the airport and the only way you can get is pricey taxi that costs 15 eur, its ether that or walk hour and a half on the sun with the bags. Luckily on Argentinian side there were lockers as well so we left the bags there. After visiting the falls we took a bus to Foz do Iguazu where we found a great diner with fantastic marakuja juice!
As far as Relja is concirned there weren’t any issues, we had stroller with us that you can take on most of the way only some parts have stairs so we had to carry (or leave them behind). Relja loved the waterfalls and animals so it was a smooth day both times. Both sides have restaurants with reasnoble prices, just watch your food, cotais are skilled thieves. Would really like to come back here one day.
Buenos Aires
Avio prevoz do Buenos Airesa je mnogo jeftiniji ako se leti sa nekog aerodroma iz Argentine, jer je to onda lokalni leti. Zato smo i mi isplanirali da letimo za Foz do Iguazu, obidjemo vodopade na brazilkoj strani, predjemo u Puerto Iguazu autobusom i odatle da hvatamo let za Buenos Aires. Povratna karta – 100 USD. umesto 350 koliko je kostala iz Rija ili Sao Paula za te datume. Odlucili smo se za sedam dana i to se cini sasvim dovoljno da se natenane obidje ceo grad.
Prvi utisak je da je Buenos Aires ogroman, raskosan, uredjen, lep, miran – gotovo evropski grad, sa sredjenim parkovima i prekrasnim fasdadama. Arhitektura je fantasticna, grad lici kao na neki crossover Madrida i Beca. Sigurno, jedan od lepsih koje sam obisao. I, jedan od jeftinijih. U poredjenju sa Beogradom neke stvari su i jeftinije. Nisam siguran da li je to samo zbog toga sto je pezos devalvirao i sto je na udaru nova kriza, ali recimo karta za metro ili autobus kosta oko 0.4 EUR, kafa je oko 1 EUR, hotel sa dve zvezdice u cetru grada sa doruckom je oko 18 EUR. Za Jelenin rodjendan smo otisli u fantastican restoran/kafanu, pili smo vino, jeli kobasice, argentniski govedji stejk, salatu, grilovani sir – za svega 20-ak EUR, za nas troje. Inace hrana u Argentini je fantasticna. Ma jeste hrana u celom svetu ukusna i interesantna, ali ono sto dobijes za svoj novac ima najvecu vrednost u Argentini i Srbiji.
Centar Bueonos airesa je Florida ulica – pesacka zona sa buticima i kaficima, koja jako podseca na nasu Knez Mihajlovu. Plaza de Mayo je centralnai gradski na cijem istocnom delu se nalazi Casa Rosada iliti Roze kuca – palata predsednika Argentine, originalno izdanje iz 1580. godine, kada je izgradje i ceo trg. Po legendi je roza jer su u krec dodavali kravlju krv kako bi zastitili zgradu od velike vlage koja vlada Buenos Airesom. Svetskoj javnosti je poznata po Eviti i njenom muzu Huanu Peronu sa cijeg su balkona drzali svoje cuvene populisticke govore. Avenida 9 de Julio je najsira ulica na celom svetu, svaki pravac ima sedam traka.
Museo de los Ninos odnosno deciji muzej u Bunenos Airesu
Posetili smo La Boca cetvrt gde se nalazi ulica Caminito, poznata kao ulica tanga. U ovom kvartu se takodje nalazi stadion Boca Juniora, cuvenog tima za koji je igrao Maradona. Obisli smo promenadu koja ima fantasticni brod muzej ARA “Presidente Sarmiento”, sa kraja 19.og veka, koji je obisao planetu citavih sest puta. U San Telmu mozete videti ulicne igrace kako igraju tango dok pijuckate sangriju i jedete argentisku govedinu. Posetili smo Planetarium koji se smatra za jedan od 10 najboljih na svetu. Projekcija je fantasticna, i za nas koji ne govorimo spanski – sasvim razumljiva. Jedino se Relja malo zbunio zbog projekcije na kojoj je “cika na mesecu”, narednih par dana je ponavljao cika, cika, kad bi video mesec. Malo jeziviji deo puta je bio obilazak groblja, Cemetario de Recoleta, ali je mesto fantasticno fantasticno zbog impozantig mauzoleja, kakvi se mogu videti u Parizu i mozda nigde vise. Na ovom groblju su sahranjeni predsednici Argentine, Evita Peron i Napoleonova unuka. Posetili smo i Japanski Vrt, autentiacni kutak, poput onih u Japanu, koji je pre neku godinu proslavio 50 godina postojanja.
Od off the grid mesta posetili smo Palermo SoHo i Kids Museum. Palermo Soho je deo koji je skoncentrisan oko Plaze Serano. Krcat je kaficima, modnim izlozima, resotranima, barovima i ulicnim artistikim tezgama. Zato je i dobio ime po originalnom SoHo-u. Male kuce su pretvorene u butike i barove pa celoj cetvrti daju boemski duh. Oko trga se nalaze i tezge sa rucno pravljenim nakitom. Mueseo de los Ninos nije bas pravi muzej, vise kao interaktivni park. Nalazi se u okviru mall-a i u njemu smo proveli oko tri sata sa Reljom. Muzej je koncipiran tako sto podstice “karijere”, dete moze da se igra tako sto kupuje ili prodaje stvari u marketu, radi na televiziji, poradja bebe, ukrcava tovar na brod. Koncept je ucenje kroz igru i nije potrebno nikakvo znanje spanskog, igre su univerzalne i jako kreativno osmisljene.
Sve u svemu Buenos Aires nam se jako dopao i poprilicno ga je lako obilaziti, ako ste sa decom u kolicima. Svuda je moguce proci, jer su trotoari siroki, ulazak u autobus je lak jer imaju visoke ivcnjake na stanicama. Parkica za decu ima na svakom cosku, ogradjeni su i imaju puno razlicitih sprava za igranje. Par puta smo naisli na klovna koji u popodnevnim casovima obilazi parkice po centru, klinci se skupe oko njega i on im odigra kratku prtstavu posle toga ima od balona pravi razne zivotinje. Ceo ugodjan nije skup, klovnovi nesto zarade a mladja deca su posebno odusevljena.
Costa Verde
Nakon druge posete Iguazi vodopadima, iz Foz do Iguazu imali smo let za Rio De Janeiro. Bio je to i najtezi deo ovog putovanja, jer je let bio u 4:50 ujutro. Spavali smo nesto malo na aerodromu a posle leta je sledila voznja kolima od Ria do Paratia. Za Relju to nije bilo toliko strasno jer on jos uvek moze da spava u kolicima pa je mogao da spava na aerodromu, a potom je nastavio u avionu. Za njega je u stvari najdosadnije ako je dugo u kolima i zbog toga nosimo tablet sa par omiljenih crtaca – sto je spas i za nas i za njega. U principu izbegavamo da mu pustamo crtace, to je nesto sto radimo samo u izuzetnim prilikama, a duge voznje su jedne od njih,
Costa Verde ili zelena obala, smaragdna boja vode u Angri dos Reis
U Riu smo bukirali rentacar sa planom da sedam dana obidjemo deo obale od Sao Paula do Rija poznatijoj kao Costa Verde. Nakon 5 sati voznje kolima, stigli smo u Paratiju i tu ostali dva dana, odnosno dve noci. Smestaj smo uzeli preko bookinga, imali smo sobu u velikoj lepoj kuci sa bazenom. Prava steta je bila sto nismo imali vise dana. Domacini su bili jako ljubazni i konacno smo se posteno odmorili. Parati je kolinijalani grad na obali na pola puta izmedju Sao Paula i Rija, okruzen dzunglom, plazama i vodopadima. Rentacar nam je omogucio da vrlo lako pristupimo okolnim znamenitostima. Prva stvar koju primetimo jeste da nema horde turista na dnevnim turama, stavise u samom Paratiju vecina turista su domaci turisti, nesto malo ostatka Juzne Amerika, po neki Amerikanaac i par Evropljana. Tobogan i Tarzan vodopadi se nalaze u dzungli, voda je bistra, osvazava u vrelom danu. U vodi se brcka oko 6-7 lokalaca, tu je jedan restorancic do kog se dolazi visecim mostom, gde jedan momak svira moderne brazilske hitnove na gitari. Priajtna muzika, blagi ljudi. Na okolnim drvecima se igraju majmuni kaupicni. Osecali smo se kao da nismo turisti, vec neki istazivaci koji su se uklopili u jedno malo lokalno mesto.
Oko 20 kilometara juzno od Paratija nalazi se Trinidad Beach. Plaze u Jugoistocnoj Aziji jesu okruzene nekom vrstom sume, ali ova plaza je okruzena pravom dzunglom. Red peska, put iza i prava Atlantska kisna suma. Poput one iz filma Apokalise, gledas je i samo cekas kada ce Jaguar da iskoci. Talasi su veliki, turista nema, samo vesele brazilske porodice koje gledaju Relju kako sljapka po plicaku i pitaju nas odakle smo.
Iz Paratija smo krenuli za Angru dos Reis, udaljenu oko dva sata kolima, mada je nama trebalo tri, jer je tokom oluje jedno stablo palo na sred puta, pa smo morali da sacekamo da se kolovoz rascisti. Inace, vreme u Brazilu je krajnje nepredvidivo. Desi se da je vedro do 4-5, nigde ni jednog oblaka i onda se za pola sata navuku sivi oblaci i krene nikad jaca oluja. Kisa ispada, vreme se razvedri i za par sati kao da nista nije ni bilo. Angra dos Reis je takozvani Jump off point za ostrvo Ilhu Grande, mesto odakle polazi trajekt, ali sama obala oko Angre je takodje jako lepa. Sem Ilha Grande ovde se nalazi jos 364 ostrva, po jedno ostrvo za svaki dan. Mi smo imali samo dve noci i jedan ceo dan za Angru, spavali smo preko airbnb-a gde su nam domacini bili jedna predivna porodica. Brazilci su inace jako gostoljubivi, ekstrovertni i prijatni, ali takodje kada ste sa njima i kada se sprijateljite postavljaju se zastitnicki. Svuda ima finih ljudi, ali vise puta me je iznenadila ta prijatnost i gostoljubivost bez ikakvog ocekivanja za uzvrat.
Na ostrvo Ilha Grande se stize vrlo brzo sa speed boat-om. Samo ostrvo je prelepo, prava divljina, nema automobila, putevi nisu asfaltirani i jedino mesto (selo) je to na koje se iskrcate iz broda, Vila do Abrao. Na njemu uglavnom letuju Brazilci, najvse ljudi iz Rija, mada je u nasem smestaju bilo najvise mladih parova sa spanskog govornog podrucja. Ostrvo je skuplje od ostatka Brazila, prvenstveno mislim na smestaj. Bukirali smo jedan jeftiniji hotela i to je bio jedan od najgorih smestaja koje smo ikad imali. Cudo je kako za isti novac, 300 – 400 km dalje, mozes da dobijes smestaj od pet zvezdica. Da smo ostali duze od 2 dana, morali bi da promenimo hotel. Ovako smo 2 dana (noci) ipak nekako izdrazli. Uzasna nehigijena, sve je oronulo, komarci svuda a soba bez komarnika. Za dva dana nismo uspeli da vidimo mnogo. Prvog dana smo obisli plazu na koju se stize peske iz sela a sutradan smo uplatili turu brodicem i tako videli jos tri plaze. Treceg dan smo se u vratili u Angru u prepodnevnim satima, preuzeli automobil koji smo ostavili na parkingiu i krenuli dalje.
Sledeca stanica je bila poluostrvu Buzios, severno od Rija. Buzios je veoma populrno letovaliste i za nas jedno od najvecih iznenadjenje na ovom putovanju – u pozitivnom smislu. Smestaj nam je bio blizu mesta Buzios, koje je i najpopularnije i najsadrzajnije na poluostrvu. Gradic ima uredjene pesacke zone sa restoranima i prodavnicama, prelepo setaliste uz more sa malom marinom. Iako smo za Buzos imali samo dva dana, uspeli smo da vidimo mnogo vise, jer smo od plaze do plaze isli kolima. Plaze su ciste, voda je topla, negde je vise ljudi negde manje, ali nigde nije prevelika guzva. Inace plaze na Buziosu su poznate po tome sto na njima zive morske kornjce pa smo se svo vreme nadali da cemo videti bar neku. Kada smo dosli, gazda smestaja nam je rekao da obavezno obidjemo jednu uvalu, gde su ribarski brodici i jos jednu plazu, gde su sanse da ih vidimo 90%. Istina je da smo ih videli na SVIM plazama. Prvo jutro smo otisli odmah u tu uvalu, sa marinom, ne bi li videli neku. Ali, njih je bilo na desetine, bili smo odusevljeni. Te velike, dobrocudne zivotnje su plivale svuda oko doka sa kog smo ih posmatrali. Kasnije smo obisli jos par plaza, ali sasvim neplanirano smo stali na jednu pred kraj dana i videli kako svakih par sekundi izviri po neka glacica da udahne vazduh. Bile su na 10 metara od obale. Naravno odmah sam uleteo sa maskom i disalicom i za kratko vreme naisao na tri prelepe velike kornjace kako plivaju na samo metar-dva od mene. Posle mene je usla i Jelena dok sam ja bio sa Reljom, tako da smo ih videli oboje. Brazil je inace veliki trud ulozio posllednih 20 godina kako bi se povecao broj kornjaca. Neke vrste su bile skoro istrbljne. Ocigledno je da organozacije pout Project Tamar, ciji smo centar posetili na Florijanapolisu, znaju sta rade. Jedino sto nisam uspeo jeste da napravim planirani zaron sa kornjacama, posto kao instruktor ronjenja retko propustam priliku da zaronim u nekoj novoj zemlji. Za dva dana jednostavno nisam imao vremena.
Rio i karneval
I, na kraju, kao slag na torti – Rio De Zaneiro!!!!
U Riju smo ostali 10 dana, 11 noci. Pretpostavljali smo da je to sasvim dovoljno vremena. Na kraju se ispostavilo da smo lose isplanirali i da nismo uspeli da obidjemo i vidimo sve sto smo planirali i zeleli.
Od 10 dana u Riju, 5 dana je bio Karneval. Za to vreme bilo je gotovo nemoguce ista drugo raditi sem uzivati i zezati se na ulicama Rija. Karneval u Riju je san mnogima, uglavom “mladima” bez dece, ali nista manji ugodjaj nije ni mladim roditeljima, iako iskreno ne predstavljamo dominantu grupaciju. Preovladava misljenje da je karneval opasno mesto, puno alkoholisanih i drogiranih adolescenata, koji gaze jedni preko drugih, da su turisti na meti dzeparosa….Iako nije kao setnja nedeljom Knez Mihahlovom, to (uglavnom) NIJE tacno. Pre svega, vecina ljudi i ne zna kako karneval funkcionse. Karneval u Riju nije jedna ulica, jeno mesto. Po celom gradu ljudi se zezaju, na vise mesta organizovani su blokosi, odnosno lokalne zurke. To je kamion koji predvodi mini paradu sa cijeg se gornjeg vrha ili pusta muzika ili nastupa samba bend. Svi djuskaju, pijuckaju, zabavljaju se, nema guranja, urlanja, gazenja, ima mladih i starih, ima turista. Na Kopakabani i Ipanemi su instalirani montazni WC-i, kako bi ta ogromna masa sveta imala gde da obavlja fizioloske potrebe. Ima dosta policije, nismo videli ni jedno nasilje ili kriminal na delu, sto ne znaci da ga nije bilo, ali definitivno nije bilo sveprisutno. Nekim danima, na nekim mestima, nastupaju Samba skole i mozete videti paradu. To je kompletna svita sviraca, pecava, perkusionista, igraca, kamiona, koreografije… Upoznali smo i dosta brazilskih porodica sa malom decom, posto naravno Relja sklapa poznanstva za nas, imali smo drustvo i bas smo se lepo proveli.
Jedino sto nismo uspeli je da odemo na Sambadrom i to je treca i poslednja stvar koju smo isplanirali a nismo ostvarili. Nekad ne mozes sve:) Uz sav research koji smo odradili propustili smo informaciju da deci do 5 godina nije dozvoljen ulazak na Sambadrom. Inace, ko ne zna, Sambadrom je kruna festivala, gde se 12 vodecih skola takmici za najbolju skolu na festivalu. Postojala je sansa da idemo odvojeno, najpre ja, pa onda drugi dan Jelena, ali smo odustali od te ideje. Koliko god je festival na Sambadromu stvar koju ne treba propustiti, mi nismo hteli da se odvajamo i da se provodimo sami. Izgubilo bi svaku poentu.
Prvih 7 dana dana boravka bili smo smesteni preko airbnb-a a ostala 4 u hotelu. Cene smestaja za vreme festivala su paprene, svi do poslednjeg, preko bookinga i airbnb-a, zele da zarade za tih pet dana, pa su cene i do tri puta vece. Mi smo preko airbnb-a jednu noc placali 50 USD – smestaj koji je inace oglasen na 22 USD. I mozemo da kazemo da smo dobro prosli. Po zavrsetku festivala smo placali isto toliko, ali za hotel sa 4 zvezdice sa doruckom i bazenom na krovu. Ta cetri dana smo se castli, za grand finale celokupnog putovanja.
Smestaj je bio blizu Secerene glave pa smo do njenog podnozja posli peske. Na Secernu glavu se, inace, moz stici samo zicarom, koja je kostala oko 50 EUR, za nas dvoje (troje). Pogled na obalu Rija je stvarno prelep, ali mislimo da je cena preterana. Inace jedino na Secernoj glavi i Korkovado brdu, gde je statua Hrista, mozete videti turiste u vecoj kolicini. Lokalaca nema uopste. Verovatno je cena tih atrakcja toliko velika da je postala ekskluziva za zapadne turiste i kineze. Posle Secerne glave smo obisli Crvenu plazu i deo grada koji se zove Urca, u podnozju secerne glave. U tom delu se nalaze prelepe stare vile, ulice su sredjene i napravljeno je setaliste uz more koje gleda na marinu. Tu lokalici pijuckaju pice i meze iz tanjirica, koje kupe u baru, pa konzumiraju na zidicu pored mora bez ikakvih stolova i stolica. Iako blizu Secerne glave, taj deo uopste nije popularan medju turistima i mi smo ga obisli neplanirano. Ali nam se jako dopao.
Do Statue Hrista je najpovoljnije popeti se tramvajem, koji ide otprilike na 20 minuta. Velika je guzva i moze lako da se desi da, kad dodjete da kupite kartu, prvi sledeci tramvaj na kom ima mesta bude tek za 2 sata. To se nama desilo. Jedino na tom mestu su nam trazili Reljin pasos, kao dokaz da je ”nas’,’ pa smo morali nazad u hotel po njega. Sva sreca, imali smo vremena jer smo cekali i taj tramvaj. Na vrhu, gde je statu, je uzasna guzva i zaboravite na to da imate sliku sami sa statuom. Pogled odozgo je spektakularan: ceo Rio se vidi sa svih strana. Treba obratiti paznju i na vreme kad se ide do statue Hrista i obabrati vedar dan, jer je za vreme naseg boravka u Riju statua bila cesto u oblacima i pretpostavljamo da tada pogled i nije tako dobar.
U Rio de Zaneiru smo obisli botanicku bastu Jardim Botanico, za koju kazu da je jedna od boljih u svetu, sto se tice raznolikosti biljaka. Mozda nije najsredjenija koju smo videli ali je sadrzajna, velika. U jednom delu je jungle track, koji je ustavri pocetak naconalnog parka Tijuca Forest. Predah se moze napraviti u kaficu pored kog je igraliste za decu. U parku smo videli nekoliko malih radoznalih Comon marmoset majmuna koji su tamo ocigledno cesti kao kod nas veverice.
U blizini botanicke baste posetili smo i park Lage – u koji je ulaz besplatan. Unutra je prelepa vila – nekada imanje poznatog brazilskog biznismena i njegove zene, operske pevacice, koje je 1960. postaje gradski park. Ovog puta smo videli Kapucin (Capuchin) majmune koji tamo ”prose” za hranu.
Najveci hram fudbala na svetu – stadion Marakana, nije bas nesto sto privlaci svakog turistu, ali svakako bi trebalo da bude. Svaka cast Nou Kampu, Stamfod Bridzu i drugim svetski poznatim stadionia, ali ovde je 1950-te godine utakmicu izmedju Brazila i Urugvaja gledalo 200.000 ljudi. Tu je Pele dao svoj 1000-ti gol. Cetri kluba igraju utakmice ovde i ovaj stadion je ugostio dva finala svetskog prvenstva i jednu olimpijadu. U kuci slavnih nalazi se i nas Dejan Rambo Petkovic! Inace masa ljudi koja nas je pitala odakle smo, govorili su „aaa Serbia, Petkovic“, neverovatno je kolika je legenda ovaj covek, El Gringo, i koliko malo mu je paznje posvetila srpska javnost… Sem Marakane posetili smo i muzej Fluminensea, za koji je uostalom igrao i Petkovic.
Za kraj putopisa smo ostavili plaze Ria. Kad se kaze Brazil, prvo sto vecina ljudi pomisli je plaza Kopakabana. Najpoznatija i najveca gradska plaza na svetu. Mozda su bas iz tog razloga jedino za ovo mesto nasa ocekivanja bila velika. Sto nije dobro. Iskreno, prvi utisak nije bio vaaauu, jer smo tokom putovanja videli puno lepsih plaza, pa cak i gradskih, kao sto je Miami beach, ali kako neko vreme provedete na njoj shatite da jeste posebna i da ima nesto sto druge plaze nemaju. Ona nema ni najlepsu boju vode, ni beli pesak, pomalo je i prljava, ali ne toliko s obzirom koliko je ljudi na njoj. Pa zasto je onda posebna? Ako nas pitate, najvis zbog Brazilaca njihove opustenosti i vedrine. Zbog velicine deluje impresivno, na jednom njenom kraju je cuvena Glava Secera i taj pogled je kao sa razglednice. Na cuvenom setalisu sa crno-belim mozaikom, jednim od simbola Kopakabane, nalaze se kafici i restorani, ali na pristojnoj udaljenosti. Svi su npravljeni u istom fazonu i iz svakog se cuje fina muzika, uglavnom Bosnova.
Ipanema je plaza koju od Kopakabane deli jedno brdo. Veoma su slicne, mada je Ipanema malo kraca i uza, ali cistija i ima lepsu boje vode. Deo Ipaneme zovu Leblon – deli je samo jedan kanal, ali je u principu to ista plaza.
I, na kraju
Juzna Amerika je definitivno bilo pozitivno iskustvo i drugacije od svih do sada. Iako bez tropskih plaza, putovanje Brazilom i Argentinom vise nam se dopalo nego recimo po Karibima. U Dominikani i Jamajci jeste lepo, ali ste osudjeni na rizort sa ogradom od pet metara, a to u Brazilu ne postoji. Putovanje kroz obe zemlje je jednostavno i lako. Postoji mnostvo opcija, s tim sto one jeftinije nisu po pravilu losije. Na primer, autobus od Florijanapolisa do Kuritibe ima siroka sedista, ogroman prostor za noge, polazi i stize u minut, ima avionski toalet, cist, radi na vakuum. Kada pomislim da u Srbiji za Brazil misle da je treci svet, bude me malo sramota, koliko smo mi iza njih u malim trivialnim stvarima. Nikad necu zaboraviti Argus Turs autobus do Firence, jedno od prvih nasih putovanja, kada je autobus imao toalet koji „nije u funkciji“ a na nuzdu si morao da trpis i po pet sati. Duple rezervacije, pretrpani autobusi, ljudi gaze jedni druge, svadja… Nista od toga tamo nema. Kazu da klima odredjuje mentalitet i verujem da je to i slucaj za Brazilom.
Koliko smo uspeli da vidimo za mesec i po dana? Iskreno, jako malo. Ako pogledate mapu Brazila i vidite kolika je oblast od Buziosa do Florijanapolisa, uocicete da je samo jedno malo parce. Sto se tice Argentine, videli smo fakticki samo vodopade i Buenos Aires. Trebale bi nam godine da obidjemo ceo kontinent – sistematicno kako to mi volimo. S druge strane, bolje je videti i manju teritoriju, ali je obici kako treba, pre nego ici na blickrig putovanja sa svrhom slikanja za instagram.
Juzna Amerika ce nas definitvno videti bar jos jedanput. Mozda vec uskoro…
